Given a surprise business trip to Barcelona, an internet appeal resulted in a recommendation to contact Stephen Christopher and, after bouncing late night emails between us, he recommended four locations over two days.

28^th October 2006, Llobregat Delta and The Pyrenees

A riverside walk on the approach to the Llobregat reserve produced several warblers (Cetti’s, Fan-tailed, Sardinian, Blackcap, Chiffchaff) and finches (Chaffinch, Goldfinch, Serin) but an early bonus was a close sighting of Common Waxbill, a population that has apparently expanded over the last few decades from a handful of escaped birds.

A Green Woodpecker undulated away and, finally tempted by the hawking of mid-distant Marsh Harriers, we entered the main complex where the lagoons and reed beds were teeming with birds.  The bulk were Coot and ducks (inc. Teal, Wigeon and Pintail) and the sprawl of Grey Heron were interrupted by the white of Cattle, Little and Great White Egrets and several Black-headed Gulls.

Lapwing formed by far the majority of the shorebird group with hundreds settled on the muddy ground but a more careful scan along the water’s edge showed that Spotted Redshank, Greenshank and Green and Common Sandpipers were also present.  A Purple Swamphen or two scoured the same boundary, though always close to cover and a Kingfisher, viewed as a turquoise jewel zooming off from nearby shelter, was the highlight before we headed off to higher ground.

We arrived in the Pyrenees to discover Chaffinches everywhere and, from above a forested bank, we picked out many Coal Tit, got great views of Crested Tit and watched a Short-toed Treecreeper scuttle between the trunks and twigs of the pine trees. These pines produce cones all year round providing food for the Common Crossbill, which were evident as we made our way to a cliff-side meadow complete with natural spring and amazing view of the whole valley.  From here Griffon Vulture filled the skies and almost the full set of corvids (inc. Carrion Crow, Raven and Alpine Chough) showed up at some point.  Yet another, the Red-billed Chough, numbered around a hundred and escorted us as we headed up to a large meadow above the tree line.

Here we presided over the to-ing and fro-ing of many Blackbirds and Ring Ouzel.  Song Thrush and Mistle Thrush, as well as at least one Redwing, were amongst them to cap a list that already included Sparrowhawk, Goldcrest, Blue Tit, Black Redstart, Woodlark, Meadow Pipit, Greenfinch and Northern Wheatear.

29^th October 2006, The Steppes and The Garraf Massif

A dozen Pin-tailed Sandgrouse flew over as we arrived in Los Monegros but our attempts to track them as they circled unfortunately ended in failure.  However, we were kept busy by a host of lark species – Calandra, Crested, Thekla and Skylarks – before we found a piece of fallow ground that looked likely.

A single incoming Black-bellied Sandgrouse alerted us to the presence of at least a dozen others and we moved forward, step by step, until we had excellent views.  Once an oncoming tractor inspired their departure we ventured further into the vast area of fields picking up more raptors, a majestic Red Kite, a first winter Golden Eagle and a pair of Merlin hunting larks capping off an impressive bunch.

An incredibly vivid Whinchat, with its orangey breast standing out in the mid-day sun, was perhaps the pick of the passerines, which also included Linnet, Stonechat and Meadow Pipit.  An extremely accommodating Little Owl sunned itself near a ruined house and a roadside Jay put in a brief appearance, as did Southern Grey Shrike and a ghostly male Hen Harrier, en route to the next location.

A brief stop-off in the Steppes of Lleida added Red-legged Partridge, White Stork and a secretive Cirl Bunting accidentally presenting itself through a gap in the foliage but then we headed off to the mountain range south of Barcelona called the Garraf Massif.

A Blue Rock Thrush flew over the car as we skirted a quarry heading deeper into the heart of the park itself, where we found, flitting about the edges of some small vineyards, Rock Bunting, Crested Tit and a group of noisy Long-tailed Tit shadowing each other along a row of trees and bushes.  Equally noisy were a flock of Woodlark finding bush top perches in the fading light and along a forest-farmland boundary, the late activity showed up many passerines including Robin.

At our final stop, a coastal location adjacent to the village of Garraf itself, dozens of Crag Martin skimmed the cliff face, and each other, before gradually settling down to roost.  Great Tit and Sardinian Warbler scuttled about trying to grab a late evening meal amongst the under growth as did White Wagtail, though they preferred to glean the morsels washed up along the stoney beach.

A series of straggling Yellow-legged Gulls trailed off over the ocean, lazily heading towards an unknown roost and we took our cue, called it a day and did likewise.

"I will definitely return soon to Stephen’s home for another wonderful trip and can thoroughly recommend both him and Catalan Bird Tours without hesitation."

Approaching my 40th birthday I was offered a golfing trip from my family but the more I thought the more I fancied something different and then remembered how much I enjoyed the peace and calm of bird watching as a boy.

After deciding on Spain I checked out a few birding breaks and came across the perfect solution, a personal bird guide with accommodation in a self-contained apartment at the guide’s villa.

This meant we could get away nice and early and enjoy the non-birding moments drinking a beer by the swimming pool, playing pool and chatting with Stephen or even just sitting and watching the crested tits on the feeders.

Stephen, the guide, was very enthusiastic and extremely knowledgeable about the birds we saw and the places we visited.  A fantastic picnic lunch was provided in beautiful surroundings and a great number of birds I had only ever dreamt of seeing were added to my list.  My main objective was to relax so we didn’t bird all the time but we saw well over 100 species.

After my 3-day break was over I was completely relaxed (we even had time to see Barcelona play in the Champions League!) and my love of bird watching was re-kindled.  I have been bird watching several times since returning home and keep in touch with Stephen who is more than happy to help with any questions I have.

10^th September 2006 – Ebro Delta

Stephen picked me up from Reus airport late afternoon (Ryanair, no complaints) and we went straight to The Ebro Delta.  There was only about one and a half hours left of good daylight but I was still amazed at the number of birds we saw.

A few juvenile Whiskered Terns flew along side the car as we went to a seaside viewpoint at La Gola de Migjorn and here we saw six species of heron including Great White Egret, Squacco Heron and a juvenile Night Heron perched in a tree.  Sand Martin and Swallows were everywhere and a Kingfisher darted past but the Marsh Harriers were what caught my eye, especially a beautiful male.

A stop off at a nearby flooded field allowed me to practise my other old hobby of photography and I snapped away at the many waders there.  A flock of Greater Flamingos in the centre were wonderful to see so close with dozens and dozens of Black-tailed Godwits and Black-winged Stilts being dwarfed by their long legs.

Ruff, Wood Sandpiper, Common Redshank, Ringed Plover and Little Stint made up most of the rest but there was also the odd Common Sandpiper and Temminck’s Stint.  As the evening sun warmed my face I reflected on how nice it was to be in Spain and it was left to the Curlew Sandpipers, just moulting out of their reddish breeding plumage, to remind me that summer was supposed to be over.

11^th September 2006 – The Pyrenees

A Black Woodpecker flying over the bonnet of the car as we arrived, with its red crown clearly visible, couldn’t have been a better welcoming.  But the scenery alone here would have been enough.  It was truly breathtaking and it’s a good job I had a digital camera or I would have used a lot of film.

The songbirds chirping along side us as we walked included Crested and Coal Tits, Cirl Bunting, Black Redstart, Pied Flycatcher and Dunnock but the two Lammergeiers that soared in over the cliff edge were what I’d been hoping for, even if I did tell Stephen I didn’t care what we saw.  I had only ever seen them in books and on TV but in real life they were magical.

On another short walk after driving above the tree line the birds seemed a little easier to find as Northern Wheatear, Raven, Griffon Vulture and flocks of Linnets, Woodlark and Citril Finch kept us busy.  The highlights though were a single remaining juvenile Red-backed Shrike, a low-soaring Golden Eagle and the sudden burst of a Merlin flying past our heads.

"Thank you for a couple of days of very rewarding birding in beautiful places that we otherwise would not have seen, all thanks to your expertise... and such a delicious picnic. Perfecto!"

Lisa and Max, England

"We had a superb week and appreciated your effort and skills very much."

"I would recommend anyone to contact Steve for a week or few days birding in the knowledge that his expertise and willingness to tailor the trip to individual needs will give a great experience."

On arrival at Barcelona airport Steve picked us up and we had a nice few hours birding at THE LLOBREGAT DELTA near the airport (see trip reports below for typical species, SC).

We woke up the next morning to the sound of Golden Orioles and Serins in the garden and after breakfast set off for THE EBRO DELTA.

Here we had magnificent and close views of all the herons except Bittern (photo of the stunning Little Bittern below), Caspian and Gull-billed Terns sitting beside Audouin's Gulls and Little and Temminck's Stint. There was a good deal of visible migration with numerous Willow Warblers in the Tamarisk bushes and even an exhausted Western Olivaceous Warbler (plus a rather stunning thunbergi Yellow Wagtail, my first for this site, SC). At the end of the day a stunning male Roller flew in and landed beside a Hoopoe.

On the second day we went to THE PYRENEES and saw Lammergeier and Griffon Vulture and large flocks of Alpine and Red-billed Chough circling around Alpine Marmots, whilst a Woodlark sang above us.

(and, appearing out of the clouds high up in the Greixer valley and gliding five metres above us, heading north towards France, an actual migrating Osprey, SC).

The following day we went to THE STEPPES OF LLEIDA and had stunning views of Pin-tailed Sandgrouse amongst Stone-curlews surrounded by flocks of Calandra Larks. There were numerous raptors to enjoy including large flocks of Black Kites and we stumbled on a roosting Red-necked Nightjar after watching a Little Bustard.

(A fantasic day. A pair of Egyptian Vultures were a much-desired lifer for Jim and, for Jan, a long-awaited Short-toed Eagle perched in a nearby tree, see above.

During the rest of the week we visited a number of excellent sites in THE AIGUAMOLLS DE L'EMPORDA and THE GARRAF MASSIF and saw some stunning birds in a wide variety of habitats. Steve’s raptor counting knowledge meant that he picked up most of the raptors and we also saw many of them perched which was a real bonus.

(plus several sightings of Bonelli's Eagle and two Red-rumped Swallows landing in a puddle next to the car, both in the Garraf. And, in Empordà, Honey Buzzards and summer-plumaged Knot, along with a poor Lesser Short-toed Lark chirping for nearly two hours on top of some recently threshed corn where its nest used to be.)

We ate out most nights in some excellent and reasonable Catalan restaurants in Sitges which is a beautiful sea side town.

The trips were planned daily according to our wishes and prevailing weather and Steve’s local knowledge and humour made it an excellent birding experience. We saw around 175 species during the week and we didn’t rush (Jim and myself have a combined age of 140!).

"From the first few minutes at Llobregat I knew it would be a great trip. I've got so many fantastic memories of amazing birds and stunning landscapes... and the experience has definitely inspired me to plan a return trip"

"I've really benefitted from the time I've spent with you... your enthusiasm and breadth of experience are obvious"

"All the best with establishing your business. You're already off to a fantastic start - Amazing!"

Declan Savage, Ireland

After seven days of ‘dash and grab’ birding in an attempt to get as many species as possible, Declan’s instructions for the week ahead came as a welcome relief - strictly nice and easy!  However, even after the usual short stop-off at THE LLOBREGAT DELTA before heading off to the villa to settle in, it was already clear we’d seen more than at the end of the previous Saturday.  However, whether the increase from 50 to 75 species was because of our different approach, sitting and waiting in hides and strolling around slowly, would remain to be seen. 

Little Bittern, Pochard and Reed Bunting, species difficult to see here without a little patience and all having avoided us last week, were already in the notebook and we had definitely picked out more species of wader as we both meticulously scanned the water’s edges.  Deep black Spotted Redshank, already in summer plumage, and Ruff, catching up quickly, were the pick of the bunch but Wood Sandpiper and Greenshank were very accommodating, coming so close to the hide.  However, even these were upstaged by the large water birds as Great White Egret, White Stork and some very showy Glossy Ibis added their names to the usual list of herons and Spoonbill.

The prehistoric-looking Collared Pratincoles, however, recently arrived and resting a few metres away, just tipped the stop-over Tawny Pipit, Pied Flycatcher and Northern Wheatear for the title of 'bird of the day'.

From the moment he stepped out of the car and laid eyes on the Vidala the previous day, I could see Declan’s expectations light up in his eyes.  And if they were already satisfied, as he claimed, by the magic of the to-ing and fro-ing of the Llobregat Delta, they were nothing less than overwhelmed by the pair of Lammergeier we were now watching, marshalling high up in THE PYRENEES.

The very same spot proved typically generous with Golden Eagle, Short-toed Eagle and Griffon Vulture all passing through, Alpine Swift and Crag Martin skirting the mountain edge and two Black Woodpecker flitting from tree to tree, drumming their warnings to each other.

We eventually peeled ourselves away from our respective rock armchairs to take a short car-ride above the tree line, picking up Grey Wagtail and Nuthatch along the way and stopping off to enjoy the stunning Rock Thrush, a bird that looks as if someone had cut random pieces out of a bird magazine and pasted them together.

Once there, aside from being mesmerised by the family of Alpine Marmots at their usual watering hole, we lazed away amongst Common Crossbill, Ring Ouzel (subspecies alpestris) and, as usual gliding alongside the car, a seemingly begrudgingly mixed flock of Red-billed and Alpine Chough.

A fleeting visit from a Common Buzzard however, as we equally begrudgingly descended the mountain, ensured that the final word went to the family of the day, the raptors.